Feh on that

Andy Fixmer in the L.A. Business Journal has a piece (sub. req'd) on the L.A. hot dog scene and the impending arrival of a new player: Portillo's Hot Dogs of Chicago. There's the usual adulation for Pink's, Skooby's and Oki Dog, and a nice mention of Tail o' the Pup. But not a word on Cupid's. What's with that? The gourmands at HotDogSpot.com correct the injustice and discover that not all Cupid's are created equal. Beware the impostors and believe Jonathan Gold when he waxes, "It is a beautiful thing to see a Cupid's dog assembled, to observe the counterman aligning buns four, five, six at a time in a special ridged tray, to witness the quick flick of his wrists as he lays in the hot dogs, smears each with yellow mustard, sprinkles them with chopped onions, then sluices them with a precise amount of chili, enough to flavor every bite - to soak into the top few millimeters of the steamed bun without necessarily slopping onto your shoes or even on your hands - before twisting the dogs like anniversary presents into layers of soft, white tissue."