We grow it, saute it, stuff it, roast it and slice it into ratatouille. Now the Times' food section tells us that there's a long and somewhat historical connection between the elegant Italian summer squash and Los Angeles. It was probably a genetic mutation that some Italian thought to save the seeds from around the turn of the 20th century. It showed up here in the 1919 catalog of the Germain Seed and Plant Co. — about the time that locals were developing the Hass avocado and the Washington navel orange — and quickly became popular in downtown restaurants. Russ Parsons digs out the history:

Less than 20 years after its discovery in Italy, the Germain catalog had an entire page devoted to the squash, including pictures and recipes from a downtown restaurant called Café Marcell, run by Joe Marcell Annechini at 215 W. 4th St.

In a 1921 story in The Los Angeles Times extolling the treasures to be found in local ethnic restaurants, the writer enthuses: "Wise is he who waives his customary steak and potatoes, and instead scans the menu for real fare of sunny Italia. Zucchini, for instance, that Italian squash which Signor Marcel— and others — import especially. It may be served in different styles, but the favorite is when, cut into small succulent squares it is breaded and fried in olive oil. Ah!"

That squash at Marcell was almost certainly not imported — can you imagine what a zucchini would look like after a several-weeks ocean voyage? But the fact that it was described as such is testimony to the cachet of the new vegetable. As is the fact that later in that same year, the Thanksgiving menu of the Victor Hugo restaurant, at 623 S. Hill St., gave zucchini prominent billing alongside ravioli "genoise" and Imperial Valley Tom Turkey.

Reminds me that the online historic menu collection at the Los Angeles Public Library is fun to poke around in. Here's the 1924 Thanksgiving menu for the Victor Hugo and a 1919 menu from the Pig 'n Whistle chain, "seven aristocratic stores in California...patrons are requested not to take dogs into the parlor." Click on the jump to see a gorgeous cover image from the Pig 'n Whistle menu.

Photo: Echotech.org