In the new issue of the Wall Street Journal Magazine, the LA Weekly's Jonathan Gold escapes from the San Gabriel Valley's Asian dives he frequents to profile the Copenhagen restaurant just voted the best in the world for the second year in a row. Excerpt:
If you want to know why a converted herring warehouse in Copenhagen could be considered the best restaurant in the world, you could do worse than to lean your bicycle against Noma's weathered brick wall and come in to take a look at its most famous dish, a preparation that would be listed on the menu, if the restaurant bothered to give you a menu, as The Hen and the Egg....
You glance across the harbor at a ferry coming in from the remote Faroe Islands, and you snuggle into the sheepskin draped over the back of your bentwood chair. You take a sip of wine. The vivid, orange yolk oozes down your throat like congealed sunshine, like jellied time.
When news broke that Noma had won the title again, I got on the next flight to Copenhagen—or rather the first flight on the date a reservation could be booked, which for a 12-table restaurant just reconfirmed as the best in the world, took a couple of weeks.