An Antarctic storm has spun off large swells that are expected to begin pounding local beaches on Thursday. The breakers should build through the weekend and reach ten feet on some south-facing beaches — maybe 20 feet or so at The Wedge in Newport Beach, says outdoors writer Pete Thomas.
As with all large Southern Hemisphere swells, there will be long lulls between giant sets. Swimmers are cautioned that monstrous waves may seem to spring up suddenly, and because of this they're advised not to venture too far from shore.
This is the same swell that greeted ASP World Tour surfers in Tahiti during a contest that was won by Kelly Slater on Monday. Surfline is predicting this will be the largest wave event of the summer and may feature some beach erosion and coastal flooding.
Fun for surfers, but a pain for lifeguards.