In the face of Saveur's enthusiasm, a taste of reality

saveur-march-2010.jpgSaveur's March issue is devoted to celebrating the greatness of the Los Angeles food scene, with pieces from Jonathan Gold, Patric Kuh, Sandra Tsing Loh and others. The usual spots and stars (plus many others) are stroked, but the collective weight of all the devotionals strikes Jewish Journal editor and food blogger Rob Eshman as a bit too gushy. "This package, written by some of our finest food writers, is edited to within a hairs breadth of puffery," he says, suggesting some reality checks:

The problem is not what the editors included, it’s what they left out. LA, it turns out, has some improving to do. It is not a great food city. It is an almost-very good one. Here are the ten things missing from LA food, and from the current issue of Saveur:

1. Restaurants close too early....Outside of Koreatown and a few other spots, LA refuses to shake its Midwestern Protestant roots.

2. Much of LA is a food desert....You can drive Olympic Blvd. from Crenshaw to Santa Monica and not be tempted to stop once....

5. The coffee culture is below average....

7. There are far too few outdoor dining options....

8. We have the best beaches and the best weather, and some of the worst beachside dining in the world.

More by Kevin Roderick:
Standing up to Harvey Weinstein
The Media
LA Times gets a top editor with nothing but questions
LA Observed Notes: Harvey Weinstein stripped bare
LA Observed Notes: Photos of the homeless, photos that found homes
Recent Food stories on LA Observed:
Tail o' the Pup headed to Valley Relics Museum*
An appetite for discovery
Norms Pico has definitely closed
Norms on Pico looks to be closing this month
Border Grill closing in Santa Monica after 26 years
Michel Richard, 68, formative LA chef
KCRW investigates LA restaurant worker abuse
CBS This Morning follows Jonathan Gold around (video)


LA Observed on Twitter