The Pier View Diner, before Larry Ellison bought and shuttered it for years and years, was the last of Malibu's cheap and casual seaside spots. Drinks were affordable and, occasionally, even strong. Tables on the deck overlooked the beach. Waiters didn't hover, didn't try to tell you the provenance of your fries.

Now it's gone, something chichi taking its place. Because that's the way of the world here in Malibu, out with the old, in with the expensive and over-done.